Coogles
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Indianapolis, IN
I guess this just confirms my idea that I won't plan on going past the is20. ttrs or RSR type clutch, bolt-ons, tune, and done. If I want to actually go fast I'll get a different car (platform).
7
So long Baby.. Another '15 Bricked
- Thread starter Twist1
- Start date
Unicorn maybe?
I think its more because of the higher force of the twin disk. Either way, I am going to look into the pin outs on the master cylinder wiring and see what it does rather than buying a whole new cylinder to throw under the dash.
Let me know what you come up with... I will keep that master cylinder under the dash until someone electrically more inclined than I can figure out a better solution.
One thing I forgot to mention, you cannot completely bypass the switch.....There are drive-ability issues and the car wants to stall most every time you take off from a light. Looks like the switch carries out more functions than just using it as a interlock.
russiankid
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- PA
Have you looked into possibly getting this coded out?
I read something about turning it off with OBD11/VCDS, but I think that only removes the message you receive on the console to push the clutch in, not the actual function. If any tuner can chime in on this one, this might be possibly within their reach.
Not an educated answer but my guess is it'll take a momentary switch or something more than just bridging a wire or leaving something unplugged. If the ECU does take clutch position into consideration for some type of anti-stall tuning off idle, etc. then you'd need something in between the switch and ECU that would show the clutch depressed only when starting, and then normal function after that.
My thought would be a simple normally open push button that you would manually hold when you start the car to trick the ECU, and that you release once started, should do the trick. Just something tapped in that provides the same resistance as when the pedal is depressed.
My thought would be a simple normally open push button that you would manually hold when you start the car to trick the ECU, and that you release once started, should do the trick. Just something tapped in that provides the same resistance as when the pedal is depressed.
This is what I was attempting, but I couldn't figure out the wiring. There are 4 wires in the 5 pin plug, one pair the for clutch pedal position sensor and the other pair for the clutch position sensor (this might be causing the stalling). Last time I worked with wiring a switch in a VW I burnt the tip of my finger lol.
Twist1
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Breaking Mustang Hearts
Litco did it. Would be great if they could chime in and possibly share this knowledge with other tuners.. as not everyone lives in Britain and it's starting to affect aLOT of cars now that the 2015s are pushing 60-80k and erbody wants that factory clutch out.
I know it's not MK7 specific but there are WOT Box Instructions here that reference the "clutch pedal position switch wire" which is a red and white wire.
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox/instructions
My understanding of a WOT box and using that wire would be to allow NLS, so the ECU thinks the clutch has been depressed, or that the car isn't WOT, or a combination. That wire according to MK5/6 instructions says it should be 12V at the wire with the clutch pedal up and 0V with it down. Not sure if just breaking continuity on that wire would be enough or if that's too simple, that's beyond my level of skill for sure.
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox/instructions
My understanding of a WOT box and using that wire would be to allow NLS, so the ECU thinks the clutch has been depressed, or that the car isn't WOT, or a combination. That wire according to MK5/6 instructions says it should be 12V at the wire with the clutch pedal up and 0V with it down. Not sure if just breaking continuity on that wire would be enough or if that's too simple, that's beyond my level of skill for sure.
russiankid
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- PA
Could make a small relay harness that uses starter signal wire to shut off continuity on that one lead, once you're not on the starter its back to normal.
I have the stage2 endurance, bolt ons and protune.
Hey guys, I just finished the setup today after receiving all the wires. I will keep it like this until something better comes along. But as of now, I will no longer be using the clutch the start the car 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UEluL1904k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UEluL1904k
I'd be in for one if you make it!
I'd be down as well! My little ghetto mod ended up not working after all. Car through an EPC code this morning and acted like the clutch wasn't connected.....I had to revert back to stock this morning.
Went looking for the three hall effect sensor outputs in OBDeleven live data. Only found 2. 'Clutch position sensor' and 'Upper clutch switch, status' (which goes true at about 20% on the position sensor).
There is an item called 'Start control, clutch switch' but it always remained at 'Not pressed'.
I briefly messed around with a magnet down there and got the position to move slightly, but where ever 'Lower clutch switch, status' is, I can't find it.