So long Baby.. Another '15 Bricked

[S1ack]

Possibly , possibly. I'd have to test to see which orientation the magnets need to be in and which exact direction they can slide in from. I think a 10mm stroke would be enough to move them in and out of the right spot. This is not an elegant solution, but might not be too ghetto.

I purchased two solenoids from Amazon - one a 10mm stroke, another 15mm (a much bigger, beefier unit than the 10mm one), I also purchased some very small strong magnets.
I'll be driving south for the holiday, and time permitting, I may mess around with these and a 12 VDC supply.

 

[S1ack]

I'm also convinced this attempt with magnets is more trouble than it's worth. Throws codes immediately.

  Trouble codes:
        P172400 - Signal for starter lock Short circuit to ground
            static
        P172300 - Signal for starter lock Open circuit
            static
        U101000 - Electrical Parking Brake Control Module Read out DTC
            static
        C10BF01 - Clutch position sensor Electrical error
            Intermittent
        C10BF29 - Clutch position sensor Implausible signal
            Intermittent

 

[thorton0]

are problems only with the 7-14 build date? im curious how safe my 4-14 build date is.

 

[A7xogg]

I'm also convinced this attempt with magnets is more trouble than it's worth. Throws codes immediately.

  Trouble codes:
        P172400 - Signal for starter lock Short circuit to ground
            static
        P172300 - Signal for starter lock Open circuit
            static
        U101000 - Electrical Parking Brake Control Module Read out DTC
            static
        C10BF01 - Clutch position sensor Electrical error
            Intermittent
        C10BF29 - Clutch position sensor Implausible signal
            Intermittent

My codes clear as soon as I start the car with pushing the clutch to start(warm start)

 

[razorbilo]

are problems only with the 7-14 build date? im curious how safe my 4-14 build date is.

I heard/read of some from April and May of 2014 as well. I am not sure when the fix was done at the assembly lines unfortunately.

 

[777-300ER]

The build date is moot, I have seen 16's and 17's fail now. It happens.

 

[maxwell]

With oil temp below 130*, take a GNARLY right hand turn (a quick one, but safely, enough to send things flying If they were in your trunk) and immediately press the pedal to quickly shift into a gear right after the turn.

When you release the pedal to engage the clutch it will NOTABLY feel different if it's walking.

Can you elaborate on this? It could be paranoia, but I have felt something similar in my 2018 GSW 1.8t 4motion 6MT.

feels ever so slightly different on hard rights when shifting, but not terribly different... but enough to notice and start to research. Now I go to bed with crank walk nightmares, lol. Could it be attributed to stock engine mounts?

 

[ZuMBLe]

Can you elaborate on this? It could be paranoia, but I have felt something similar in my 2018 GSW 1.8t 4motion 6MT.

feels ever so slightly different on hard rights when shifting, but not terribly different... but enough to notice and start to research. Now I go to bed with crank walk nightmares, lol. Could it be attributed to stock engine mounts?

I sure hope you're wrong....

 

[maxwell]

I sure hope you're wrong....

I really want a VW guy to drive it. I don't want to come across as someone drinking the Koolaid, but its concerning.

Can someone elaborate on why right hand turns? Oiling system? Shifts crank/ rotating assembly to feel it?

 

[Twist1]

everybody on FB is freaking out. Another one of my friend's Golf Rs locally with a DKM twin disc just lost his bearing. He was at one of my last meets and was even asking about how mine had failed because he had the same kit.

With that being said:

It's not worth even worrying about. You will KNOW if you have a walking crank. There's no if or buts. There's no well maybe, maybe not. The first symptom is more than likely going to be oil pressure codes. If you've never gotten em you're fine. The right hand turn test means that the pedal feels SUBSTANTIALLY different in its bite point when you go to engage the clutch. You will know it. It's not something that can be avoided with tuning, mods or anything else. At this point there is a pattern that points towards ONE kit being more used in failures than others and I'm sure you guys can figure out which it is. It just has too much force for weak thrust bearings. That's it.

If you have a paranoia it may happen either get a DMFW clutch (RSR) which WILL help prolong it IMO or just trade it in on a DSG and (tcu )tune it and you will be much happier. I almost guarantee it. The VAG mk7 MT are junk. That's just the reality of 'feeling your car.' Even when my old car was at its peak, it didn't even come close to the engagement and joy banging on the wheel shifters. I highly recommend those clinging to outdated technology for nostalgic purposes to drive a TUNED DSG car. With the risk of being VERY upside down on a tuned car that WILL NOT BE WARRANTIED I can not recommend enough just at least giving a tuned dsg a try.

-ymmv

 

[Twist1]

I really want a VW guy to drive it. I don't want to come across as someone drinking the Koolaid, but its concerning.

Can someone elaborate on why right hand turns? Oiling system? Shifts crank/ rotating assembly to feel it?

It is a classic old DSM crank walk test.

The inertia of the right hand G forces onto the crank shaft cause it to shift out of its proper spec (this does NOT happen if thrusts are working correctly, that is ya know, their purpose). This is translated to the clutch pedal because the bite point of the pressure plate is now interacting at A DIFFERENT spot on the flywheel then when you pushed it in. You feel this very clearly in your foot. If you're having to ask if is or not different than I'm almost positive it is fine.

Keep and eye on it and see if it gets worse. If it does, catch it early and dump car asap.

 

[A7xogg]

It is a classic old DSM crank walk test.

The inertia of the right hand G forces onto the crank shaft cause it to shift out of its proper spec (this does NOT happen if thrusts are working correctly, that is ya know, their purpose). This is translated to the clutch pedal because the bite point of the pressure plate is now interacting at A DIFFERENT spot on the flywheel then when you pushed it in. You feel this very clearly in your foot. If you're having to ask if is or not different than I'm almost positive it is fine.

Keep and eye on it and see if it gets worse. If it does, catch it early and dump car asap.

Combination of crazy strong pressure plate + removal of engine balancer(dmfw) + shitty thrust bearing design + using clutch pedal to start car= siezed oil pump which destroyes everything

 

[maxwell]

Thanks for the replies guys, the difference is there on hard right hand turns but it is almost as if the pedal feels 'ever so slightly' slightly mushier/softer. engagement point remains the same. I wonder if things like the sloppy stock engine mounts can be what I am feeling? Sure hope so. No other symptoms at ALL.

I am on a 2018 6MT 4motion GSW, APR stage 1 91. 18k miles. Stock clutch, ECS bleeder block, clutch stop. Thats it!

I only owe like 10k on the car, I am in a great spot. First two oil changes were dealer performed. I am about 1,000 miles in on the tune. I will keep a SHARP eye out for symptoms, as well as check my oil filter now that I am going to my own oil changes going forward.

Koolaid, man. Koolaid. I'll stop drinking it and enjoy the car.