So i will add to this. My engine is done as well. started fucking up last week and found out today that its done. i had 695xx miles on it. it was built in july of 2014. I talked to VWoA and they pretty much said I'm shit out of luck because i am over 60k miles. First when i threw the codes and felt the issue, i checked the oil to see if there was metal shavings in there....i didn't see anything and have come across someone that had the same codes and it ended up being the spool valve. Replaced that and went to change the oil and filter. in the filter, found a bunch of metal shavings. I just ordered a new engine today so she will be back up and running here soon. I do NOT have the DKM, i have a south bend stage 3 daily and have only had the clutch in for a bit less than 2000 miles.
Yup. i commented that is was my car with a crying face lolIs your car the one on TCR's instagram?
Yup. i commented that is was my car with a crying face lol
It is what it is man. I first thought it was crank walk but I had my hopes up until today lol.Sorry dude. I talked to Josh shortly about it and the labor isn't as bad as I imagined. Buying a new engine sucks though.
I am wondering if perhaps it's time for the clutch interlock bypass talk to leave the parent's basement and become it's own thread?
Looking for 12VDC electromagnets - here is a 1/2 in x 1/2 inch unit....
https://www.aecmagnetics.com/store/automation/round-12-volt-dc/ce-050-12c-1-detail
There's a significant difference in force between the neo magnets and the small electros. The neo discs are much stronger. I think it's possible no 12v electro magnets exist that are small enough to fit into the right spot yet strong enough to work, but i'm not a magnet expert just yet. Maybe there's some combo of neo discs + electro where it's just strong enough to work when switched on? I was going to fiddle around with that combo later this week.
I want to add one with its own switch that's triggered by the ignition and I can turn it on of off realitivly close to the start switch. I haven't looked yet to see if I can find an oem switch that sits in-between the drive mode button and the t/c and esc button
Yea my 2015 has been nothing but fucking problems. I have 147k miles and since it got over 100k it’s been a flaming pile of shit. Fuel pump has gone out numerous times(in tank pump) fuel pump on the top of the engine keeps giving me issues. There is a loud tapping in the DSG transmission and I have a water pump leak. Plus I have to fuck up my grill too get the hood popped Bc my hood pop assembly that is behind the left headlight came apart last night. So now I can’t even fill it up with water. Never buying another fucking VW again!!!!Welp. Story starts about 2 weeks ago. So excited to install my new twin disk dkm. 7/14 Mexico 2015 MT.
Well about 2/3 into break in I start to get a rattling sound when pressing the pedal. Chalked it up to normal break in.. All of a sudden out of nowhere I turn car on and ..
Low Oil Pressure Warning
Crankshaft position camshaft position correlation failure
Oil pressure switch 3
It seems that a MASSIVE amount of 7/14 Mexican GTIs have gone out. Of course warranty is useless (fbo is38 car). What dya know.. thrust bearing failure slowly.. yet another bites the dust..
It's fkn ridiculous that they obviously screwed these up yet have no recall on their mistake. So all of us tuned are basically SoL (in before pay to play cliche).
If you own a 7/14 Mexico build date MT TRADE IT asap!!! This is now almost a dozen recorded forum cases and who knows how many unrecorded!
It explains so much though..
Pedal sticking when making sharp right turns (but never down )
1st gear sounding like engine about to shred itself 4k+
The DKM clutch SMFW quickly destroyed the remaining thrust bearing imperfection. If you own a 2015 MT GTI I highly reccomended going DMFW if you're going to keep the car. They are not designed to be used with smfw and obviously will mess them up its just a matter of when.
Good luck, vdubguy!Yea my 2015 has been nothing but fucking problems. I have 147k miles and since it got over 100k it’s been a flaming pile of shit. Fuel pump has gone out numerous times(in tank pump) fuel pump on the top of the engine keeps giving me issues. There is a loud tapping in the DSG transmission and I have a water pump leak. Plus I have to fuck up my grill too get the hood popped Bc my hood pop assembly that is behind the left headlight came apart last night. So now I can’t even fill it up with water. Never buying another fucking VW again!!!!
OK so electro-magnets will not work. How about sticking the strong ass magnets to a 12VDC push solenoid, and wiring in a momentary switch (personally I would hide the switch) to activate the solenoid so as to move the magnet(s) into position before cranking. Releasing the button and the magnet(s) are back out of the way. It could look pretty ghetto but whose gonna see it cable tied up under the dash?
Like a door bell plunger - but DC.
35mm stroke:
10mm stroke:
OK so electro-magnets will not work. How about sticking the strong ass magnets to a 12VDC push solenoid, and wiring in a momentary switch (personally I would hide the switch) to activate the solenoid so as to move the magnet(s) into position before cranking. Releasing the button and the magnet(s) are back out of the way. It could look pretty ghetto but whose gonna see it cable tied up under the dash?
Like a door bell plunger - but DC.