So long Baby.. Another '15 Bricked

[cW6mT mKviGTi]

I only read through the first 3 pages and I'm not sure if its mentioned somewhere in the thread, but, the guy who's behind the YouTube channel JR14 just experienced crank walk on his 2017 GTi with catastrophic engine failure.

It seems like a major flaw with these crankshaft assemblies. His failure also seems to confirm that the issue exists beyond the 2015 MY.

 

[Twist1]

I only read through the first 3 pages and I'm not sure if its mentioned somewhere in the thread, but, the guy who's behind the YouTube channel JR14 just experienced crank walk on his 2017 GTi with catastrophic engine failure.

It seems like a major flaw with these crankshaft assemblies. His failure also seems to confirm that the issue exists beyond the 2015 MY.

Y'all can argue with me all you want my instincts tell me it's without a doubt a long term by product of removing the oem DMFW. It served many different purposes other than clutch operation, as I mentioned earlier.By the way, jr14 had the same clutch that now about 65% of all failures brought to my attention had in their cars. Same one that I had when mine failed.. Getting VERY interesting.. and Yes I have a color note that's been keeping track of failures with year and clutch from here and fb grp.

I'm curious if a dsg has ever experienced bearing failure.

 

[Hoon]

I'm curious if a dsg has ever experienced bearing failure.

I've never heard of one, which makes sense because there is no thrust load on a DSG.

This isn't unique to this engine, there are plenty of others that have issues when a heavy pressure plate is used.

 

[Jacobmk7]

Glad I got dsg.

 

[ITGUY]

I've never heard of one, which makes sense because there is no thrust load on a DSG.

This isn't unique to this engine, there are plenty of others that have issues when a heavy pressure plate is used.

Hi Hoon,
Heavy pressure plate? do you mean more clamping force?

Thanks

 

[Hoon]

Hi Hoon,
Heavy pressure plate? do you mean more clamping force?

Thanks

Yes.

That clamping force must be overcome to disengage the clutch every time you step on the clutch pedal.

You're pushing against the crankshaft every time you step on the clutch, the heavier the pressure plate springs the more force is against the crankshaft and therefore the thrust bearings.

 

[ITGUY]

Yes.



That clamping force must be overcome to disengage the clutch every time you step on the clutch pedal.



You're pushing against the crankshaft every time you step on the clutch, the heavier the pressure plate springs the more force is against the crankshaft and therefore the thrust bearings.

so a 600 ftlb holding clutch is a bad thing???

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[ZuMBLe]

Fok...

so a 600 ftlb holding clutch is a bad thing???

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Hoon]

so a 600 ftlb holding clutch is a bad thing???

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Clutches hold torque in 2 ways, the clamping force of the PP spring and the friction of the disk.

A very heavy spring (stiff pedal) is putting more thrust load on the crank and therefore more likely to cause crankwalk over time.

 

[95b14]

Went looking for the three hall effect sensor outputs in OBDeleven live data. Only found 2. 'Clutch position sensor' and 'Upper clutch switch, status' (which goes true at about 20% on the position sensor).

There is an item called 'Start control, clutch switch' but it always remained at 'Not pressed'.

I briefly messed around with a magnet down there and got the position to move slightly, but where ever 'Lower clutch switch, status' is, I can't find it.

I found the live data field for the interlock switch. When the clutch is depressed, it reads “00”. With a magnetic pick up tool near the wire harness and firewall, I was able to start the car without pushing the clutch down. I haven’t driven or anything to confirm any epc’s because I stumbled upon this thread after a few beers. I don’t think you can just double stick tape a magnet in there because it will likely affect the cruise control switch but it is possible to start the car with a magnet.

 

[A7xogg]

I will be following you to see how it goes. What strength magnet are you using?

 

[95b14]

Below is a picture of where I placed the magnet on the clutch pedal switch and the magnet I used itself. It is the brake pedal side of the clutch pedal for reference.

just an FYI, if the magnet isn’t positioned perfectly, the car partially cranks and throws an epc. It goes away if you turn the car on and off. It’s easy to get it in proper position if you get under the dash and do it, but this is only so feasible to do parking in public places. Also, my RSR pressure plate has eased up a lot in a week since installing it so I kind of abandoned this for now.

 

[Quebster]

Does the car still run after this happens..? I got the same faults (low oil pressure, camshaft correlation, oil pressure switch) at my last track day, but my OEM PCV was sucking copious amounts of oil out of the head, filling the catch can in two pulls, and dumping it all into my turbo which destroyed it, so there's no telling what was going on with the oil pressure thanks to that. The car still ran fine until the turbo totally seized, and even then I could start the car and drive it on and off a ramp, and it would even idle ok.

My motor was built with IE/Mahle internals only 8k miles ago and we replaced all the OEM bits with latest-rev parts, especially the thrust bearings. Thoughts?

SB Stage 3 Endurance clutch btw, SMFW. Early '14 build date, Mexico.

 

[Twist1]

Does the car still run after this happens..? I got the same faults (low oil pressure, camshaft correlation, oil pressure switch) at my last track day, but my OEM PCV was sucking copious amounts of oil out of the head, filling the catch can in two pulls, and dumping it all into my turbo which destroyed it, so there's no telling what was going on with the oil pressure thanks to that. The car still ran fine until the turbo totally seized, and even then I could start the car and drive it on and off a ramp, and it would even idle ok.

My motor was built with IE/Mahle internals only 8k miles ago and we replaced all the OEM bits with latest-rev parts, especially the thrust bearings. Thoughts?

SB Stage 3 Endurance clutch btw, SMFW. Early '14 build date, Mexico.

I dont think your issue is thrust related. 8k miles is too short a time.

It drove perfectly fine up until the moment I sold it. I just was able to catch it and figured out what was going on. Most don't. and ignore symptoms until it moves enough to cause timing issues.

 

[Quebster]

I dont think your issue is thrust related. 8k miles is too short a time.

It drove perfectly fine up until the moment I sold it. I just was able to catch it and figured out what was going on. Most don't. and ignore symptoms until it moves enough to cause timing issues.

Time will tell I suppose, it will be heartbreaking if I get this back together only to find that I'm having a thrust bearing failure, with 8k miles on a built motor. Anything I can check while she's sort of apart? Upper timing cover is off but not planning to remove lower.