I'm using a subaru filter on mine currently. The downside to the subaru filter is that the sandwich top from racingline is smooth top, so any time you unscrew the filter oil goes EVERYWHERE. I just wait a long time after draining and pad the area with paper towels before pulling the filter. I don't feel Comfortable with reusing their metal substrate filter because it uses a magnet. I might try to just extend filter use since I flush oil frequently.
The racingline "heat exchanger" core is pretty tiny. It's designed for 60hp I believe, which on an engine that already has factory cooling issues is not enough.
and this is why I relocated the oil filter to the bottom of the car. The oil literally drips ALL over the pulley system, belts, electrical plugs/sensors and side of the motor with the way the VWR kit is designed. No way around it regardless of what filter you use.
I read all about the drawbacks on the racingline kit already and that's why I picked up an iabed adapter plate so I can piece together a kit from Amazon. I dont think I'll have to take off the front clip though, just the bumper and intake manifold if I'm not mistaken
I must have missed that part- i've been looking hard at Racingline for most of my future parts. I must have gotten bit by their marketing bug. Glad I'm still in the research phase.
I like Racinglines stuff but find it a little pricey. Got their catch can for the track. I do not like the propriety filter on their oil cooler setup. I would prefer a proper temperature thermostat vs. the oil pressure bypass system they have. A 10-row cooler is way to small. Ease of install was my biggest consideration here. So totally agree with Victorofhavoc. The other options will work just as well, but there is more work involved for sure.
I like what Navi has done with a remote oil filter setup and will likely follow his lead.
I had been mulling over this since VWR had rumors of an oil cooler kit a year or two ago. Now hearing how dinky the RacingLine kit cooler is plus their expensive oil filters, I was also looking toward piecing something together.
Then I saw the Hel kit, utilizing the Iabed plate, which has options for a larger Setrab cooler and sst lines is available for less.
Sure, it will be more work than the VWR, but should be pretty straightforward. I think the benefits will be worth the extra time.
and this is why I relocated the oil filter to the bottom of the car. The oil literally drips ALL over the pulley system, belts, electrical plugs/sensors and side of the motor with the way the VWR kit is designed. No way around it regardless of what filter you use.
This is why they designed their proprietary filter, which opens from the top. You could technically keep reusing it and washing it, but with particulates in the ppm range being the kind of contaminant that ruins engines it's just a risk I'm not willing to take. That's why I also take drop in filters with a grain of salt and try to ensure whatever "high flow filter" I look at can't let sunlight through. The filter from 034 that came with the p34 intake had gaps that grains of rice could fit through! That's just a recipe for disaster.
Nice job relocating the filter!! What did you use to make that work? I also planned on ditching 90% of the vwr kit, but ran out of time when I was piecing things together. I decided to see how much the ten row would actually help, and it's not terrible (bought me an extra ten minutes on track before hitting 275*). I back off by 280 on oil or by 230 on water. I usually hit the oil limit first and then spend time dancing around it before water comes up. Hoping the hood louvres help with air evac...
The iABED take-off plate is a great way to go. There is more time involved. If you are doing a water pump, that would be the perfect time to do the install. Pulling the intake to walnut blast carbon off valves, the additional labor for the iABED install is minimal.
Personally, I would take off the front clip off to have good access and not work blind or by feel. At least have the front crash structure in the service position To gain some extra room.
If you are willing to put in the sweat equity then go for it. And then post your install with photos for the rest of us.
I read all about the drawbacks on the racingline kit already and that's why I picked up an iabed adapter plate so I can piece together a kit from Amazon. I dont think I'll have to take off the front clip though, just the bumper and intake manifold if I'm not mistaken
If you look at how buried that part is and what kind of tiny wrenches and swivels you'd need to get to the back bolt for the plate, you'll see that it's easier to pull the engine and trans than it is to go from the front, but it's not something you can do without a hoist and space to go at it for days. Going from the front is more work, but easier in a home garage. If you're throwing on that plate, might as well just do the intercooler, radiator, all hoses (replace with new oem stuff), gaskets, and anything else you may touch that's also buried.
I'm not saying it's impossible or not worth the effort, it's just a lot more effort than most people can really accomplish. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have a good amount of experience tearing things apart, and just planning out the work and going through it in my head frustrates me with that one.
So I mocked up the 19-row Setrab on the Mounting bracket. Based on what I see, I will likely need to ditch the vibration isolators for something more compact. Most probably some rubber grommets or if someone can suggest an isolator that is half the height.
The neat thing about Setrab coolers is their M22 fittings that mount directly to the outlet ports and they make for a more compact footprint, allowing you to squeeze in a larger cooler. The M22 Banjo fitting is the lowest profile you will get. This is a -8, I will need to buy -10’s but it allows you to get the 19-row cooler in.
The VWR cooler for comparison. This takes a sweeping 90-degree fitting which eats up a lot of space by comparison. They flow better than the banjo fittings, but I would prioritize the additional cooling capacity.
Anyone interested in new oil thermostat? This will be going up for sale soon.
This is why they designed their proprietary filter, which opens from the top. You could technically keep reusing it and washing it, but with particulates in the ppm range being the kind of contaminant that ruins engines it's just a risk I'm not willing to take. That's why I also take drop in filters with a grain of salt and try to ensure whatever "high flow filter" I look at can't let sunlight through. The filter from 034 that came with the p34 intake had gaps that grains of rice could fit through! That's just a recipe for disaster.
Nice job relocating the filter!! What did you use to make that work? I also planned on ditching 90% of the vwr kit, but ran out of time when I was piecing things together. I decided to see how much the ten row would actually help, and it's not terrible (bought me an extra ten minutes on track before hitting 275*). I back off by 280 on oil or by 230 on water. I usually hit the oil limit first and then spend time dancing around it before water comes up. Hoping the hood louvres help with air evac...
I ran the vwr filter for awhile. It helped a little but still got oil everywhere. Always a huge mess. I also didn't trust VWR's capabilities of making a quality oil filter. The Setrab filter seems pretty good and I used that afterwards but I have since switched to KN Performance paper filters because they trap smaller particles.
So I mocked up the 19-row Setrab on the Mounting bracket. Based on what I see, I will likely need to ditch the vibration isolators for something more compact. Most probably some rubber grommets or if someone can suggest an isolator that is half the height.
..... those look like M6 or larger in your pic.