GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Track + AutoX alignment specs

Will_

Autocross Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
Let’s discuss track or autocross alignments. I’m currently running and have been for a year now (for track):

2.5r camber
2.0r camber
0 front toe
1/32” per side rear toe
7.5 caster per side

I seem to be getting fairly even wear at the track up front but am seeing a bit of excess inside wear on the rear, so I’m considering lowering rear camber to 1.8 and also zeroing out rear toe.

What alignment are you running on track or autocross (please specify) and how has it worked for you?
 
Last edited:

SouthFL_Mk7.5

Autocross Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
I ran the car with -2 up front -1.4 in back, 7.7 Caster, zero toe.

Then bumped up to -2 in back (as suggested by my alignment specialist who sets up race and AutoX cars)….. got me better overall grip without adding notable under steer or inner tire wear.

I always used zero toe all around.
 
Last edited:

Bernb6

Go Kart Champion
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Autobahn
I'm at:
Front
2.5 camber
7.5 front
3/16 toe
Rear
2.5 camber
1/16 toe

I'm happy with the feel and tire wear on 245/40/18 RS4's
 

ckuhns

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotts Valley, CA
Car(s)
2019 Golf Sportwagen
I'm at....
Camber: -2.1 front, -1.7 rear
Can't recall caster.. but I've got the SuperPro 18k arms which are supposed to add 1 degree.
zero front toe, rear is .1 degree toe IN.

Take all I say with a grain of salt as I'm not super experienced with car setup and track stuff, but so far with the 1 track day I've done on it and on backroads, it feels really good, though maybe a little more prone to understeer than oversteer, which is not my preference.. in reading some suspension tuning stuff, I changed the settings on the B16's to make the rears a touch stiffer than the fronts, which in theory should help with that.
 
Last edited:

odessa.filez

Autocross Champion
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
for ax most recently
camber Front ~ -4.75, Rear -2
toe Front -3/16" Rear 0
Springs Front ~550#, Rear 2000#
Sway bars disconnected
no lsd, xds off, esc off
Tire pressure 42psi front rear

I plan to experiment with more spring up front and.more camber front and rear.

Current.setup is manageable on slower courses, but too rear biased for fast courses.
 

smashedpotatoes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Sacramento, CA
Car(s)
Golf 7 R
for ax most recently
camber Front ~ -4.75, Rear -2
toe Front -3/16" Rear 0
Springs Front ~550#, Rear 2000#
Sway bars disconnected
no lsd, xds off, esc off
Tire pressure 42psi front rear

I plan to experiment with more spring up front and.more camber front and rear.

Current.setup is manageable on slower courses, but too rear biased for fast courses.
Mind explaining the reasoning behind disconnecting your sway bars? I'm inexperienced and find that fascinating. Are you trying to maximize load on your tires?
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Champion
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
Mind explaining the reasoning behind disconnecting your sway bars? I'm inexperienced and find that fascinating. Are you trying to maximize load on your tires?
yes, minimize lift on the inside tires from bars.

it's a speculative experiment that seemed to make the car faster on.slower courses. With no lsd, speculation is it's.helping the front traction and in the rear, diminishing tripod effect. Also, with the high spring bias in the back, the rear bar is not really needed to make the car rotate.

Not saying 'everyone should disconnect', but it is an easy thing to try as disconnecting an endlink on one side and securing it is not difficult to.do.and.undo.

ditto my spring setup/balance. I'm chicken in this setup on a.fast course and I'm looking for.ways to reduce the rear bias that are easy to prep.
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
I ran 3.6 front and 1.9 rear camber, -1/16 total toe front and rear. Never had any weird wear at all, car was street driven a ton (on FK510s). I was very happy with that from an alignment perspective.

My autox tire wear was always fairly even - back never appeared to want more camber FWIW.
 

FlyingNugget

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto, Canada
-2.5 front
-1.8 rear
0 toe F/R

Found the car to be stable on the high speed stuff with my current setup(h&r/b8). I was adjusting rear tire pressure to get more rotation when needed. Does not rotate well on the slow speed corners. I have a buddy that recommended adding toe out in the rear -- seemed to work for him as I could not follow him through slow tight sections of the track.
 

JackRabbitSLIM

Go Kart Champion
Location
OHIO
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
Strong recommendation for a lot of front roll stiffness, as much front camber as possible and a good amount of rear toe out for autocross.

I'd say my car was on the looser side.

Last year my car was:
Camber: -3.7 front, -2 rear. Front camber was maxed on the plates and the camber offset bushing.
Toe: 0.125" out front, 0.25" out rear
Springs: 650F/950R
Bars: OE front, 034 25mm rear

If I was going to continue running the car Nationally I'd go for more front camber (slot the mounting holes) and maybe -2.5 in the rear.
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
Bit of an older thread but maybe it will generate some action...

On my '18 Sportwagen w/4Mo here's where I am:

F. camber -2.0
F. caster 7.9
F. toe 0.16
R. camber -1.6
R. toe 0.15

I don't know any better but seems to rip!

Setup is:
H&R springs
Bilstein B8s
H&R 27mm fsb/25mm rsb
034 fsb end links/Moog rsb end links
Tyrolsport deadset kit
034 r. subframe inserts
Superpro aluminum LCAs
Eurosport camber mounts
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
Driving an Alltrack in XSA with coilovers and 034 ball joints. Current front camber is -3.7, but have more adjustment available. Would it be worth it to go over -4, and if so are the stock tie rods long enough?
How does that work on the street though w/r to street tires/wear?
 

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
Driving an Alltrack in XSA with coilovers and 034 ball joints. Current front camber is -3.7, but have more adjustment available. Would it be worth it to go over -4, and if so are the stock tie rods long enough?
Yes they are long enough when using those ball joints and top camber mounts, im around -6 and there is still plenty of the the tie rod threads in the sleeve.

When I was running 25mm balljoint extenders I had to run tie rod extenders though.
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
I've seen a 2022 GR86 running -4.3 front camber and he had incredible front grip. I was thinking of setting mine to the max I can get, but worried if there would be negative consequences.

Current setup is Silvers Neomax coilovers with 10k/14k Swift springs (re-valved by Randy O’Brien), 034 ball joints and front sway bar end links, Eurocode front chassis brace, H&R 25mm rear sway bar w/Moog end links, 034 Rear Subframe Mount Inserts. -3.7 front/-2.2 rear camber, zero toe. Apex VS-5RS 17x9/ET42, with 255/40-17 Yokohama A052. (driving winter season on my old setup- Enkei TS-10 18x8/ET45, with 245/40-18 RT660's, and saving the Yokohamas for this coming season.

View attachment 269667
Plenty of the STR miata run 4.2-4.3, same with the STS cars. If you can get more, do it. The only thing you might notice is less straight line traction on power, since you're reducing the contact patch while the wheels are pointed straight.
 

krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
Took my car in for an alignment today, been since early 2022 since it was checked.

Couldn’t get that front camber to match up, but it’s close enough.

123_1.jpeg



Bilstein coils
Eurosport camber pucks on front
Powerflex offset LCA bushings
 
Top