Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[snobrdrdan]

11:46 to 11:50
A huge sigh, then: "it's fun, isn't it?"

 

[B95zP]

Recently helped install H&R springs on an S3, and due to my eternal paranoia about aligning the struts correctly at the top had an epiphany. Mark the underside of the strut mount with a Sharpie to that you can look up and visually confirm that they're positioned correctly.

 

[Hammersticks]

Just point the indicator on the top of the strut mounts towards the center of the car. As long as that's done the three holes will align which means it's on correctly. If the holes don't align you know it's wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AR11]

Recently helped install H&R springs on an S3, and due to my eternal paranoia about aligning the struts correctly at the top had an epiphany. Mark the underside of the strut mount with a Sharpie to that you can look up and visually confirm that they're positioned correctly.

My alignment paranoia has to due with the springs in the rear. You kind of have to twist them around to get them seated against the rubber pad (bottom). At the same time you have to watch that the rubber pad doesn't twist (it has a nipple that sticks through the bottom of the control arm which will get pulled up if you twist the pad). If the nipple is cocked at an angle you've moved the pad.

 

[B95zP]

Just point the indicator on the top of the strut mounts towards the center of the car. As long as that's done the three holes will align which means it's on correctly. If the holes don't align you know it's wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

orly? Didn't know that!

 

[snobrdrdan]

orly? Didn't know that!

Yup...the line should point/be closer towards the engine.
I always align the mount with the tab on the bottom of the strut (or the swaybar link bracket) before I install the strut

 

[Jamie93]

Thanks for this thread, its really helpful. One question I have is whether you think it is worthwhile replacing the bump stops and spring seats on the front shocks when changing the shocks? How long are these things generally good for?

 

[Hammersticks]

Thanks for this thread, its really helpful. One question I have is whether you think it is worthwhile replacing the bump stops and spring seats on the front shocks when changing the shocks? How long are these things generally good for?

I wouldn't worry about those parts being bad, especially with a car that's a few years old at the most. Just get the replacement parts mentioned and you should be just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[snobrdrdan]

^^^
x2 on what he said

 

[jacincm]

My car currently has 5k miles. I was planning on doing the spring install when the whether gets warm at about 7k miles. I'm planning on using the 2x4 method and replacing the following bolts:

STRUT MOUNT BOLT x6 Part Number: N-101-277-07
STRUT BOLT x2 Part Number: N-909-548-02
STRUT LOCK NUT x 4 Part Number: N-101-064-02
STABILIZER LINK BOLT,x2 Part Number: N-107-765-01
STABILIZER LINK LOCK NUTx2 Part Number: N-901-838-03
LOWER CNTRL ARM MOUNT BOLT x2 Part Number: N-106-405-01

I also plan on replacing the bearings as well. Should I replace the strut mounts as well with the heavy duty ones ECS sells? Or should I be good considering the miles are relatively low. Preferably, I'd like to do it right the first time rather than having to redo the install later on.

 

[BxGTI]

My car currently has 5k miles. I was planning on doing the spring install when the whether gets warm at about 7k miles. I'm planning on using the 2x4 method and replacing the following bolts:

STRUT MOUNT BOLT x6 Part Number: N-101-277-07
STRUT BOLT x2 Part Number: N-909-548-02
STRUT LOCK NUT x 4 Part Number: N-101-064-02
STABILIZER LINK BOLT,x2 Part Number: N-107-765-01
STABILIZER LINK LOCK NUTx2 Part Number: N-901-838-03
LOWER CNTRL ARM MOUNT BOLT x2 Part Number: N-106-405-01

I also plan on replacing the bearings as well. Should I replace the strut mounts as well with the heavy duty ones ECS sells? Or should I be good considering the miles are relatively low. Preferably, I'd like to do it right the first time rather than having to redo the install later on.

NO, you are good to go with what you have, I replaced my springs at 10k maybe 11k or so and I'm at 23k now with no issues, however I will replace the dampers before the end of the year the I will replace everything, mind you that I want with all new bolts and nuts but same mounts and bearings next time I'll go OEM again, I see no reason in my case to go HD but that's me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hammersticks]

As mentioned in the thread I have reused many of the bolts (except the pinch bolts) multiple times without any issues. I am going to replace all of the rears for peace of mind, but that's after re-doing them 7-8x over thousands of miles without any issues. Just make sure you are torquing down with a torque wrench, or at least not going totally crazy on things like the front upper strut bolts which don't take much.

The only option I'm aware of for strut bearings are OEM. Definitely buy some. Strut mounts are totally up to you. With 10k miles etc I wouldn't pre-order new ones though. I bought the 034 versions after my first install thinking the stock ones were broken due to a noise, but they seemed fine. I must say the 034 versions are really beefy and I'm not concerned about them failing, but they were also $100 for the pair. It's the bearings that are the weak link.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[adefendo1]

Ecs tuning has two other options for strut bearings other than the oem, but for and extra 4 bucks each I'd go oem!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hammersticks]

Yeah, I definitely wouldn't skimp there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[snobrdrdan]

Should I replace the strut mounts as well with the heavy duty ones ECS sells?

I'm not sure what you're installing, but there have been a few complaints of noises with the stiffer mounts

I'd stick with your OEM mounts, but definitely get new strut bearings