Key not in range - yes, I replaced the battery

[ReadTheBook]

Update 3/23/17 This issue was caused by hardwiring a dash cam to fuse 37, the Left DRL/Parking Light Control Module. The last 10a fuse on the bottom row in the fuse panel. This module feeds back to the BCM and it is suspected that there was some sort of random power fluctuations causing the BCM to dip power to KESSY or something like that.

Re-wired to the 12v 20a fuse location and no more issues.

––––––––

Update 2/24/17 Dealership reset all coding defaults in the Central Electrics system, and this resolved the issue. The shop foreman who was the one working on my car was a little perplexed given that none of the coding I did was anything to do with KESSY and had been in place for months before this all started to happen.

I had done the following:
- I coded out the LED license plate light error when I switched to LED plate bulbs.
- I changed the tail lights to work in unison, 4 at once when braking, then inner/outer (together) for blinkers.
- I changed the comfort blink setting from 3 to 4.
- Open/Close windows with key fob.
- Turn on DRL option in MIB.
- DRL stay on with turn signals.

I'll be adding each one of these things back one by one, with the exception of DRL option in MIB because I never used it, to test and figure out which one caused it.

Original Post
-------------------
So in the last 3 weeks or so I've experienced intermittent "key not in range" messages on the dash, while I was sitting in the car, with it in park but had it running.

Sometimes the key was in my right pocket.
Sometimes the key was sitting in the cubby in front of the shifter.
One time the key was sitting in the cup holder.

Eventually the error seems to go away on its own while siting idle, or goes away when I put the car into gear and start driving.

It has been a bit colder here in the SF Bay Area for a few weeks, but I'm not sure why that would have anything to do with it.

Things I've tried:
- Replaced the battery (though I shouldn't have to, the car is 3 months old).
- Searching the forums, didn't find much on this aside from other people experiencing it and it most often being due to a low battery (I don't have a low battery)
- Scanning for error codes with OBDEleven (none found for the KESSY system)

Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions on this one? Thanks.

 

[dlau9]

Happens to me exactly as you have described. Annoying as hell.

 

[Skwangtang]

Same issue. I just ignore it.

Also hate how the range of the key is less than 10 feet.
And no, it's not a battery issue because it has done this since I bought the car and replaced the key battery.

 

[jjson]

Ok so OP, I'm not sure if your car is experiencing similar problems as mine. My '16 GTI PP was picked up on August 30th and just before xmas time, I had the replace key fob battery message come up on my MFI. I go and change it at the dealership cuz why not? It's covered by warranty and I want them to have a record of things.

Fast forward to a week ago Thursday, I was driving in the morning and all of a sudden my whole instrument cluster started lighting up on and off like a christmas tree. It would do the whole gauge sweep thing and all warning lights would come on. Sometimes the needle on the tach and speedo would be stuck when it decides to turn off (I'll post pictures later)

Mechanically, the car was fine and drive-able. The headlights and signal all worked, you just can't hear the "clicking" sound when you go to signal. Called up the dealership service and was told to bring the car in cuz now it had a solid CEL on. The cluster would come on and off when I was heading to the dealership. I was just afraid of stalling it on my way there cuz it would take awhile before the car can turn back on once it is off.

Long story short, they found out it was a faulty instrument cluster and had to be replaced. They were just tapping on the dash above the gauges and they would flicker and turn off and on.

Soooo I'm not saying OP might have this exact problem as me, but something to watch out for? I'll post pics later. Car had around 4700km on it before the cluster started acting weird.

Should I start a new thread on this?

 

[VDuBNIT]

I've had my car for a month to the day, it was a very good Christmas indeed. Anyway, mine does the same thing OP.

 

[up4speed]

I'm not going to say that this is the same issue as you, but I figured I would throw it out there.
Recently, I started getting weird errors randomly.
- I had some weird exclamation point symbol, but didn't get a chance to read the problem before it went away.
- radio played, but screen stayed dark
- Key out of range
- Key fault error message
- display said to place car in P or N
These errors happened randomly over the past few months (had car for 2+ years total and no problems until recently). They seemed to happen when it was a little colder, and when I first started the car. Someone recommended that I check the car battery. Even though it cranked the car fine, it failed testing because the cold cranking amps were too low.
I decided to change it based on the test results, and sure enough, the car has not had any issues since (it's been about 2 months).
My guess is that since these cars have advanced electronics, the computer is expecting to see a certain amount of power and if it doesn't get it, the electronics freak out.
As I said, not sure if yours is similar, and I'm not even 100% sure that the battery replacement fixed mine because the issues were intermittent.

 

[ReadTheBook]

I'm not going to say that this is the same issue as you, but I figured I would throw it out there.
Recently, I started getting weird errors randomly.
- I had some weird exclamation point symbol, but didn't get a chance to read the problem before it went away.
- radio played, but screen stayed dark
- Key out of range
- Key fault error message
- display said to place car in P or N
These errors happened randomly over the past few months (had car for 2+ years total and no problems until recently). They seemed to happen when it was a little colder, and when I first started the car. Someone recommended that I check the car battery. Even though it cranked the car fine, it failed testing because the cold cranking amps were too low.
I decided to change it based on the test results, and sure enough, the car has not had any issues since (it's been about 2 months).
My guess is that since these cars have advanced electronics, the computer is expecting to see a certain amount of power and if it doesn't get it, the electronics freak out.
As I said, not sure if yours is similar, and I'm not even 100% sure that the battery replacement fixed mine because the issues were intermittent.

Interesting tidbit. My car is only 3 months old though. I'd hope it wouldn't have a failed battery already.

I am wondering about the soundskins sound deadening I installed being a potential cause of signal loss.

 

[up4speed]

Interesting tidbit. My car is only 3 months old though. I'd hope it wouldn't have a failed battery already.

I am wondering about the soundskins sound deadening I installed being a potential cause of signal loss.

I agree it's most likely not your issue, it would be very shocking if it was your battery since it's so new, but I have seen new batteries fail (it's VERY rare, but possible).
I don't know how the system works, but I would also be shocked if the sound deadening stuff caused your issue. First of all, I think enough people have used the stuff in the past and probably would have reported issues with the key range. Second, if I am correct, the antenna is in the door handle for it to unlock the doors and the sound deadening is inside that, so it shouldn't affect that range when approaching on the outside. And, I'm going to guess that the antenna for starting the car is in the steering column since the key has to be in close proximity and wouldn't work outside the car or even in the car, but away from the drivers zone. Once again, if the antenna is in the column, I can't see how the sound deadening in the doors would affect the range?
These are just thoughts, so I may be completely wrong. I'm just trying my best to help out. I know how annoying it can be if the car isn't working properly.

 

[ReadTheBook]

I agree it's most likely not your issue, it would be very shocking if it was your battery since it's so new, but I have seen new batteries fail (it's VERY rare, but possible).
I don't know how the system works, but I would also be shocked if the sound deadening stuff caused your issue. First of all, I think enough people have used the stuff in the past and probably would have reported issues with the key range. Second, if I am correct, the antenna is in the door handle for it to unlock the doors and the sound deadening is inside that, so it shouldn't affect that range when approaching on the outside. And, I'm going to guess that the antenna for starting the car is in the steering column since the key has to be in close proximity and wouldn't work outside the car or even in the car, but away from the drivers zone. Once again, if the antenna is in the column, I can't see how the sound deadening in the doors would affect the range?
These are just thoughts, so I may be completely wrong. I'm just trying my best to help out. I know how annoying it can be if the car isn't working properly.

There are several antenna locations.

You are correct about the ones in the door handles, though they are for authentication and unlocking only. There is a matching sensor/antenna in the rear bumper for when you approach hatch.

Inside the car, there is one in the steering column (you're also right with that) and one behind the back seats underneath the foldable part of the seat, positioned dead center. The master control for the system is behind the glove box and there are a few other incidental modules near the drivers seat in the dash.

My Helix Soundbox wiring crosses the cable for the rear KESSY sensor over on the passenger side rear corner of the seat, and I had it running up alongside it for part of the run over to the left side of the spar tire well where the DSP/Amp sits when the box is installed. I am wondering if this was causing some RF interference. As of last night I repositioned the cable and will try to reproduce over the next couple of days.

 

[up4speed]

There are several antenna locations.

You are correct about the ones in the door handles, though they are for authentication and unlocking only. There is a matching sensor/antenna in the rear bumper for when you approach hatch.

Inside the car, there is one in the steering column (you're also right with that) and one behind the back seats underneath the foldable part of the seat, positioned dead center. The master control for the system is behind the glove box and there are a few other incidental modules near the drivers seat in the dash.

My Helix Soundbox wiring crosses the cable for the rear KESSY sensor over on the passenger side rear corner of the seat, and I had it running up alongside it for part of the run over to the left side of the spar tire well where the DSP/Amp sits when the box is installed. I am wondering if this was causing some RF interference. As of last night I repositioned the cable and will try to reproduce over the next couple of days.

Oh wow, good point about interference. That's always a possibility with electronics. I know that in order to avoid interference with home audio systems, you should never run power cables parallel to audio cables together. If they have to cross over, they should cross perpendicularly and if parallel, at least 18" apart. I'm not sure if this applies to car audio as well.

 

[ReadTheBook]

Oh wow, good point about interference. That's always a possibility with electronics. I know that in order to avoid interference with home audio systems, you should never run power cables parallel to audio cables together. If they have to cross over, they should cross perpendicularly and if parallel, at least 18" apart. I'm not sure if this applies to car audio as well.

Probably the same, though car power is significantly less than home power.

I heard back from the soundskins folks and they say they "guarantee the product does not cause any interference with any sort of RF. I'm not sure how thats possible given there's a layer of foil between a layer of super strong butyl adhesive and a layer of closed cell foam that is basically covering my entire hatch/spare, and all 4 doors, but I'll have to take their word for it.

I switched keys to see if that makes a difference and also re-routed the helix cable so it doesn't get close to the antenna. We'll see.

 

[itsstan]

There are several antenna locations.

You are correct about the ones in the door handles, though they are for authentication and unlocking only. There is a matching sensor/antenna in the rear bumper for when you approach hatch.

Inside the car, there is one in the steering column (you're also right with that) and one behind the back seats underneath the foldable part of the seat, positioned dead center. The master control for the system is behind the glove box and there are a few other incidental modules near the drivers seat in the dash.

My Helix Soundbox wiring crosses the cable for the rear KESSY sensor over on the passenger side rear corner of the seat, and I had it running up alongside it for part of the run over to the left side of the spar tire well where the DSP/Amp sits when the box is installed. I am wondering if this was causing some RF interference. As of last night I repositioned the cable and will try to reproduce over the next couple of days.

The key fob range for my KESSY GSW sucks, can you tell me where the antenna for that is? Because my car will start with the key being anywhere inside the car, including the hatch, I'm guessing the antenna behind the seat back is used tell the system if the key is inside the car. Is that right?

 

[ReadTheBook]

The key fob range for my KESSY GSW sucks, can you tell me where the antenna for that is? Because my car will start with the key being anywhere inside the car, including the hatch, I'm guessing the antenna behind the seat back is used tell the system if the key is inside the car. Is that right?

I'm a little confused by your question/statement. You're saying the range sucks, but then that you can start it from anywhere within the vehicle.

Do you mean that the actual range to lock unlock from a distance outside sucks?

Yes, the antenna and other component locations are identical.

 

[up4speed]

Probably the same, though car power is significantly less than home power.

I heard back from the soundskins folks and they say they "guarantee the product does not cause any interference with any sort of RF. I'm not sure how thats possible given there's a layer of foil between a layer of super strong butyl adhesive and a layer of closed cell foam that is basically covering my entire hatch/spare, and all 4 doors, but I'll have to take their word for it.

I switched keys to see if that makes a difference and also re-routed the helix cable so it doesn't get close to the antenna. We'll see.

Keep us posted. I'm curious to know if that was your problem.

 

[itsstan]

I'm a little confused by your question/statement. You're saying the range sucks, but then that you can start it from anywhere within the vehicle.

Do you mean that the actual range to lock unlock from a distance outside sucks?

Yes, the antenna and other component locations are identical.

Yikes, sorry for not describing my question better, you deciphered it correctly. I'm wondering which antenna is used for when you use the key fob at a distance from outside the car to lock or unlock it. Was hoping I could reposition it for better range.

Thx for the reply.