DerHase's 2019 GTI Rabbit Edition: HPDE shenanigans

[q74]

Possibly yes. At least the log you sent me it was also hot as balls out which will pre-emptively reduce timing as well (but won't show up as knock correction, just a lower final timing reading).



No, and I'm not convinced one will help.

I've got a potential solution up my sleeve I hope to test out soon, but I also saw that Radium Engineering is releasing a plate PCV replacement soon and will likely give that a shot when available.

View attachment 286597

I'm curious what your PCV solution is? I have APR plate, but haven't installed it yet for exactly the reason you mention (crankcase pressurization). Cool to hear that Radium is developing a solution for our platform, but I do worry it will suffer from the same issues all the other plates do (with APR being least worst option thus far).

EDIT: Damn, this (Radium) looks well designed

 

[GTIfan99]

Yeah problem with all aftermarket plates is they pressurize the crankcase at all times, pushing out slowly out of all the seals.

For track use though, that's probably the lesser of evils.

I've found that VW has a QC issue with their factory PCV's.

My BM smoked, switched to BL and almost no smoke.

@mrmatto had smoke, a little smoke, switched to BL and got heavy smoke.

I'm now on BL and he's in BM, both with a cc. But we have rules that prevent removing factory pcv.

We're you getting big smoke clouds? If so, you need a new PCV and a cc. If not, you need to add a cc.

Factory pcv and cc isn't going to pressurize your crack case, unless it fails.

 

[scrllock]

I've found that VW has a QC issue with their factory PCV's.

My BM smoked, switched to BL and almost no smoke.

@mrmatto had smoke, a little smoke, switched to BL and got heavy smoke.

I'm now on BL and he's in BM, both with a cc. But we have rules that prevent removing factory pcv.

We're you getting big smoke clouds? If so, you need a new PCV and a cc. If not, you need to add a cc.

Factory pcv and cc isn't going to pressurize your crack case, unless it fails.

technically you're losing some vacuum pulling that air through all that hose. part of why the BMS can is a pretty good part, it's the shortest run possible.

the radium PCV appears to solve the issues with the stock AOS while maintaining the CCV/PCV AOS functionality in the PCV itself. If it doesn't require a can at all and allows for full vacuum, that would be really ideal.

the APR plate seems like a good solution for now, though the seal failure issue is a real thing.

 

[GTIfan99]

technically you're losing some vacuum pulling that air through all that hose. part of why the BMS can is a pretty good part, it's the shortest run possible.

the radium PCV appears to solve the issues with the stock AOS while maintaining the CCV/PCV AOS functionality in the PCV itself. If it doesn't require a can at all and allows for full vacuum, that would be really ideal.

the APR plate seems like a good solution for now, though the seal failure issue is a real thing.

Mrmatto and I both using the BMS can.

It's a bit of a pain, being right over the brake fluid reservoir, but you're right.

Is the Radium PCV available yet?

 

[scrllock]

Mrmatto and I both using the BMS can.

It's a bit of a pain, being right over the brake fluid reservoir, but you're right.

Is the Radium PCV available yet?

rumor mill says october.

 

[MonkeyMD]

rumor mill says october.

2024

 

[tigeo]

I had OE part no. 06K103495AP on my 1.8 and had some smoke after T1 right hander at VIR that my buddy following told me about. I since switched to part no. 06K103495BL and haven't had that issue that I know of since but of course time will tell.

 

[tigeo]

Has anyone used the new 034 full plate CC? Looks similar to APR.

 

[DerHase]

Accidentally was given a spare DQ381 that I couldn't turn down - was going to be scrapped otherwise. Apparently the dealer gets a complete assembly even if only the diff module is needed

Setting aside just in case. Could also make R&D easier if I want to piece together a DSG oil cooler (though I don't see the need just yet).

 

[DerHase]

Just swapping pads back now, but I bought some Genesis temp indicating paint at TMI Racing while at VIR… needless to say shits HOT up front. Rear is hotter than I expected. Right on the cusp of DS1.11 and DS3000 crossover. Might be worth buying a set of DS3000 rears to test out - the paint indicates after 5 min of exposure, so if the pads are a bit hotter in actual use, then maybe the 3000s would be more aggressive once up to temp to help balance out the 3.12s?

Surprisingly zero problems with dust boots, etc even with 1400F rotor temps. I will put paint on the calipers in various spots next time. I just applied it through the wheels this time. Not pictured but the front rotor hats are red/brown on the scale so 679-804Fish.

 

[tigeo]

Cool results with the paint. So the rear brake balance is off and going with a higher Mu pad compound will help balance it? I run the EBC Bluestuff NDX in back on the 272s which are a 0.52 Mu so similar to the 3000s in that respect/more than the 1.11s. They have a MOT of 1000 F/538 C. I have had no braking balance issues that I perceive at least on the hard brake zones at VIR braking from the 130s so T1 and T13....my tires aren't as grippy as yours though.

 

[DerHase]

And I now have an expensive valuable table in the garage until further notice

 

[DerHase]

Cool results with the paint. So the rear brake balance is off and going with a higher Mu pad compound will help balance it? I run the EBC Bluestuff NDX in back on the 272s which are a 0.52 Mu so similar to the 3000s in that respect/more than the 1.11s. They have a MOT of 1000 F/538 C. I have had no braking balance issues that I perceive at least on the hard brake zones at VIR braking from the 130s so T1 and T13....my tires aren't as grippy as yours though.

Stock pad brake balance is identical compounds F/R which is how the ABS is (presumably) programmed around.

Going faster puts proportionately more heat up front so to some extent you (probably) don’t want the rears as grabby. More so when you’re braking harder (taking even MORE weight off the rear).

Where it’s tricky is the INITIAL application. You have the rear able to help out, and also comes into effect under trail braking/with light pressures. This is where the DS3.12/2500 combo was nearly undriveable. The 3.12s are quite grabby when hot and I think need some aggressive bite out back to complement them.

If/when I ever do a BBK I intend on stepping down to 1.11s up front since they’re less grabby.

I’ll take grabby over faded/failed brakes any day though. And I REALLY like the longevity I get out of these Ferodo pads.

 

[DerHase]

Temp data added for reference:
https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.ph...our-logs-are-belong-to-us.425356/post-7984551

As I said, kind of disappointed in that the hood vent didn't drop temps as much as I'd hoped, but taking into account it was 20F hotter than prior, and I could beat on the car without ever letting off, AND with the timing/KR issues I think it still has promise once the PCV issues are sorted.

 

[DerHase]

Downpipe installed. Never seen these weird exhaust brackets before, basically just drilled the rivets out and then it’s a normal slip on joint like normal.

Turbo looks good, light white coating on everything probably from running at elevated temps on track regularly. No play in the turbine shaft.

It’s a mild pain to remove the old cat with the VAQ diff in the way. I’m holding onto the stock cat in case I ever sell the car, but man I’m not looking forward to ever reinstalling that. It’s VERY tight and requires a bit of crumpling heat shields in the process.

Didn’t start it up yet, will do it on my lunch break and start playing with the tune in the evening to get the wastegate right again.