2017 GTi PP at VIR

[Crild]

Come make it down to Topeka for Heartland Park sometime . I'm still not sure if I'm going to COTA this year, and I only have about 2 weeks to decide.

MVP is doing heartland this year instead of a 2nd road America. He didn't want to do like 3rd week of September again

 

[Mini7]

Stock engine in 80F ambient saw oil hit 268 and I backed off at VIR. Two long straights means plenty WOT.

With the low torque APR stg1, I never got over 260. But ambients were in the low 40’s in November. The CSF radiator has more capacity to soak up and dissipate heat before it gets maxed out. Im thinking a 10% reduction in oil temps would be acceptable. I’m not expecting to see any lower coolant temps, the ECU will be controlling the thermostat accordingly. I feel that the CSF radiator will have the ability to recover faster in adverse/high ambient days.

Has anyone taken a look at the AC condenser. If anything is going to restrict flow to the IC & radiator is the banged up fins on the AC condenser up front.

I will keep you all posted. PCA Zone 2 on 3/20 will be my first event. Not likely to be a heat wave. Lol I would melt otherwise.

 

[Crild]

Stock engine in 80F ambient saw oil hit 268 and I backed off at VIR. Two long straights means plenty WOT.

With the low torque APR stg1, I never got over 260. But ambients were in the low 40’s in November. The CSF radiator has more capacity to soak up and dissipate heat before it gets maxed out. Im thinking a 10% reduction in oil temps would be acceptable. I’m not expecting to see any lower coolant temps, the ECU will be controlling the thermostat accordingly. I feel that the CSF radiator will have the ability to recover faster in adverse/high ambient days.

Has anyone taken a look at the AC condenser. If anything is going to restrict flow to the IC & radiator is the banged up fins on the AC condenser up front.

I will keep you all posted. PCA Zone 2 on 3/20 will be my first event. Not likely to be a heat wave. Lol I would melt otherwise.

First events here are half way thru April lol. I'll be running my first event in April with my heater on. With it typically being highs in the high 30- mid 40's and windows down i typically have at a minimum the heated seats on full blast plus some ammount of heat.

Probably won't be able to get a real gauge on it till June when it's warmer.

 

[Mini7]

I ran the 034+ Dynamic mounts for a year before the Ohlins and Vorshlag plates went in.

Removed the 034 plates a few weeks ago to put them up for sale and they were still in great shape. No perceptible play that I could tell.

The aluminum dogbone insert is set up to fail. The bending moment is to high and the aluminum does not have the strength to resist getting crushed. I’ve also opted for a Revo mount paired with an APR pendulum. HPA is/was still out of stock. I’m also kinda leaning towards the revo engine and transmission mounts if my stock ones crap out. From what I can tell the dogbone mount adds more NVH than either engine or transmission mounts.

 

[Mini7]

This is another corner where the GTi shines. Turn 3 at VIR. The approach is tricky.

 

[NoNpLuS]

The mods you're talking about take you into STH territory where those mods won't be competitive at all

thanks for the lengthy wright up. i really appreciate the knowledge. so the way the car (2018 Golf R, 6MT w/DCC) sits as of this moment is Cobb Stage 1 with a CAI and muffler delete being the only modifications. i have a set of Advanti Storm 17x9 +45's .i was hoping to run Hankook RS4 255/40/17's for quite a few reasons including price and durability. i know they run wide.

Any tire suggestions? Adjustable springs... MSS or Ground Control? can't afford to go full coilover with dcc deletes atm. lastly can i get rid of the front and rear toe with just an alignment or am i looking at adjustable end links and toe links?..

i'm gonna reread the SCCA regs and reach out to a friend of mine that's been competing for a few years in a Focus ST....

again thanks for your time Victor

 

[Mini7]

First events here are half way thru April lol. I'll be running my first event in April with my heater on. With it typically being highs in the high 30- mid 40's and windows down i typically have at a minimum the heated seats on full blast plus some ammount of heat.

Probably won't be able to get a real gauge on it till June when it's warmer.

I avoid the middle of Summer. Spring and late Fall is when I normally DE.

Heated seats are a big plus. Two of my events are with the Audi Club. So windows up and comfortable temps in the cabin for the driver. PCA/BMW is still old school. Pouring rain with windows down in 45F is a little chilly. Fortunately I don’t have to give too many point bys in the rain.
Z06/ZR1 and Porsche drivers do not like the rain. E46 M3’s and TTRS’s seemed to fair better in the wet.

 

[victorofhavoc]

thanks for the lengthy wright up. i really appreciate the knowledge. so the way the car (2018 Golf R, 6MT w/DCC) sits as of this moment is Cobb Stage 1 with a CAI and muffler delete being the only modifications. i have a set of Advanti Storm 17x9 +45's .i was hoping to run Hankook RS4 255/40/17's for quite a few reasons including price and durability. i know they run wide.

Any tire suggestions? Adjustable springs... MSS or Ground Control? can't afford to go full coilover with dcc deletes atm. lastly can i get rid of the front and rear toe with just an alignment or am i looking at adjustable end links and toe links?..

i'm gonna reread the SCCA regs and reach out to a friend of mine that's been competing for a few years in a Focus ST....

again thanks for your time Victor

Scca rules: https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules

Looks like they have the r in ds, stu, and asp classing. Ds is where the wrx plays I think. Ds you can't do much but you can do a front or rear sway and any tire you want on a stock width wheel. Stu is pretty much all suspension goodies, but no tune (unless they changed to match sth). Asp is all goodies, tune, slicks, etc.

You can see how certain mods can bump you into a class where you may not be competitive without throwing more parts and money at it.

Read through the rules, talk to your friend, decide how competitive and involved you want to be, and have fun .

EDIT: forgot to respond to the spring question. I had MSS and had issues. A lot of other people have had similar issues and the springs don't really perform as expected. I really wouldn't bother with springs until you can do replacement struts too (if you get to that). If you're dead set on them, I'd maybe try the APR or ED. I ditched DCC + 034 for PSS10 and they're definitely a stiff monotube coil, but they ride well; chassis flex is now apparent.

No you don't need anything extra to set toe. I run 0 toe front and .06 total toe in rear for a very tail happy rear.

 

[Crild]

I avoid the middle of Summer. Spring and late Fall is when I normally DE.

Heated seats are a big plus. Two of my events are with the Audi Club. So windows up and comfortable temps in the cabin for the driver. PCA/BMW is still old school. Pouring rain with windows down in 45F is a little chilly. Fortunately I don’t have to give too many point bys in the rain.
Z06/ZR1 and Porsche drivers do not like the rain. E46 M3’s and TTRS’s seemed to fair better in the wet.

So Audi club skimps on safety. Windows down is a safety item for you and the workers as then won't need to bash your window in to save you and you won't have glass in your face/lap when something goes wrong.

Slicks = no wet sessions.

 

[M3bs1]

Lots of arguments on other forums about window requirements. Trend is towards more groups allowing windows up. I’m inclined to think that if you are involved in an accident severe enough to prevent door opening, those windows are already broken. There’s also the argument that side curtain air bags are designed to operate with windows up. Here in the south we also like to make the case for running the AC as a safety enhancement....

I’m taking my R to Roebling tomorrow and it is supposed to rain all day. If they allow it, my windows will be up.

 

[Crild]

Lots of arguments on other forums about window requirements. Trend is towards more groups allowing windows up. I’m inclined to think that if you are involved in an accident severe enough to prevent door opening, those windows are already broken. There’s also the argument that side curtain air bags are designed to operate with windows up. Here in the south we also like to make the case for running the AC as a safety enhancement....

I’m taking my R to Roebling tomorrow and it is supposed to rain all day. If they allow it, my windows will be up.

It's also largely track by track basis. Road America safety requires all windows down no matter the weather conditions. Unless you're physically unable to have them down (full blown race car with the little slide window)

 

[GTIfan99]

Scca rules: https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules

Looks like they have the r in ds, stu, and asp classing. Ds is where the wrx plays I think. Ds you can't do much but you can do a front or rear sway and any tire you want on a stock width wheel. Stu is pretty much all suspension goodies, but no tune (unless they changed to match sth). Asp is all goodies, tune, slicks, etc.

You can see how certain mods can bump you into a class where you may not be competitive without throwing more parts and money at it.

Read through the rules, talk to your friend, decide how competitive and involved you want to be, and have fun .

EDIT: forgot to respond to the spring question. I had MSS and had issues. A lot of other people have had similar issues and the springs don't really perform as expected. I really wouldn't bother with springs until you can do replacement struts too (if you get to that). If you're dead set on them, I'd maybe try the APR or ED. I ditched DCC + 034 for PSS10 and they're definitely a stiff monotube coil, but they ride well; chassis flex is now apparent.

No you don't need anything extra to set toe. I run 0 toe front and .06 total toe in rear for a very tail happy rear.

First, he needs to read the rules, because your summation is wrong in multiple areas. ST allows 200tw or greater, not any tire. STU has always allowed tunes, but you can't adjust the boost tables. You can increase boost if it occurs due to other legal charges, like a DP, exhaust, or intake.

Third, the R isn't competitive nationally in any class. Period. The R can be plenty competive locally in DS or STU. For instance, I finished 5th pax on tthe year in CS prepped NC Miata that isn't competitive nationally in any class and raw timed the entire STR field all year. Would I have taken it to a national event? No.

Second, if you're planning to run nationals and want to trophy, sell the car, buy a Civic Type R. End of story. If you autocross for fun and drive it on the street 99% it's life, who cares if it's competitive nationally? If you're happy with the car stock, put a RSB on it, tweak the alignment, get some 200tw tires and have a blast. If you do want to mod the car, read STU rules, mod the car, and go have a blast.

 

[Crild]

First, he needs to read the rules, because your summation is wrong in multiple areas. ST allows 200tw or greater, not any tire. STU has always allowed tunes, but you can't adjust the boost tables. You can increase boost if it occurs due to other legal charges, like a DP, exhaust, or intake.

Third, the R isn't competitive nationally in any class. Period. The R can be plenty competive locally in DS or STU. For instance, I finished 5th pax on tthe year in CS prepped NC Miata that isn't competitive nationally in any class and raw timed the entire STR field all year. Would I have taken it to a national event? No.

Second, if you're planning to run nationals and want to trophy, sell the car, buy a Civic Type R. End of story. If you autocross for fun and drive it on the street 99% it's life, who cares if it's competitive nationally? If you're happy with the car stock, put a RSB on it, tweak the alignment, get some 200tw tires and have a blast. If you do want to mod the car, read STU rules, mod the car, and go have a blast.

 

[NoNpLuS]

Read through the rules, talk to your friend, decide how competitive and involved you want to be, and have fun

damn... i'm left with more questions than answers.

one last question about suspension... can rear negative camber be adjusted without a dedicated camber arm? if so, what's that number look like?

victor. if at some point i have a few other questions could i shoot you a PM? i don't want to clutter up this thread with my ramblings

 

[NoNpLuS]

if you're planning to run nationals and want to trophy, sell the car, buy a Civic Type R. End of story. If you autocross for fun and drive it on the street 99% it's life, who cares if it's competitive nationally? If you're happy with the car stock, put a RSB on it, tweak the alignment, get some 200tw tires and have a blast. If you do want to mod the car, read STU rules, mod the car, and go have a blast.

I've owned golf variants my entire life. no hondas for me... thanks for the advice. just trying to learn how to really drive and work on VW's