2017 GTi PP at VIR

[Mini7]

No data overlay to check his speed. Two seconds behind what I turn in my little 6-cyl M3. This is my new target:

Awesome driving!!! That is a big heavy car to wheel around the track. I’m liking the commitment up the esses and through T-10. Those who have driven VIR will understand. You picked up time going down the roller coaster on your 1:58 lap. You attack the curbs pretty much the same way I do.

 

[Mini7]

As far as I know, the APR BBK is a rebranded PopwerStop kit. Probably the best way to get it for better US support
Somebody correct me if I am wrong .

PowerBrake makes the APR BBK. It’s a quality BBK. I connected the dots when I saw the pictures on ECS. It looks exactly theses same as mine.

Vorshlag is also a PowerBrake Dealer/Distributor.
https://www.vorshlag.com/forums/for...werbrake-big-brake-upgrade-kits-from-vorshlag

 

[M3bs1]

Awesome driving!!! That is a big heavy car to wheel around the track. I’m liking the commitment up the esses and through T-10. Those who have driven VIR will understand. You picked up time going down the roller coaster on your 1:58 lap. You attack the curbs pretty much the same way I do.

I wish I could take credit for it, but that wasn’t me. I’m a few seconds behind. As I said, his time is my target.... Doesn’t look like it’s going to happen, as I’ve put the ZLE up for sale. It’s fast, but just not my style.

 

[Mini7]

I haven’t read this whole thread, but have you messed with the rear brake bias by any chance? Or do you find they still work well with the added stopping power up front?

Also do you have a link to your brake kit? I haven’t found much in the way of Powerstop stuff. Nice looking kit.

I shaved 2-seconds off my laptime at VIR when I installed the PowerBrake BBK vs. my PP & Pagid RS29’s. No more boiled fluid or multiple brake bleeds on a weekend. They recommended their 350x34 BBK but it would not fit under 17” RSE 16 Neuspeeds, so I opted for the 4-piston 330x32. Can’t say enough good things about the brakes. I’m waiting for the 17” Apex SM-10’s to launch, so I can get the larger 350x34.

To answer your question, these stop well period. They have have recommended I try a slightly more aggressive rear pad to shift a little biase rearward to help reduce front rotor temps to help extend front pad life. This will also help with some rotation while trail-braking. I’ve run a full 60-minute session at VIR on these without any fade and consistent braking right the way through the session.

 

[Mini7]

I wish I could take credit for it, but that wasn’t me. I’m a few seconds behind. As I said, his time is my target.... Doesn’t look like it’s going to happen, as I’ve put the ZLE up for sale. It’s fast, but just not my style.

Hah! No worries. It was really good to watch. You’ve driven VIR so you can appreciate his commitment.
I’ve done 117mph up the esses on MPS4S and understeer bad through T-9, So going in at 140 and letting it bleed down to 120mph in that big heavy car. And then do 96-97mph through T-10. Yup he is wheeling the car hard.

 

[Mini7]

VAQ Pump Replacement & Oil Change Cont.

Here is some of the info I’ve found while researching this topic.

AWD HALDEX MAINTENANCE
AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump motor
Basic Settings -> Reset adaptations

Engine on
1. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump Prime for 30 seconds
It seems to make a humming noise and then seems to purge. Sound is an alive indicator. I've found nothing else to diagnose a pump without taking it out, so this is how I test the pump twice a month.

After fluid change, I do this 2-3 times with 1 minute intervals done on level ground.

For drain, I prime the pump level prior to so that as much gunk is attached to the screen and I am able to clean it when I remove the pump for haldex fluid change, what isn't there is hopefully drained with the rest of the fluid. I drain at an angle, but fill when leve.

2. (22) AWD -> Output Tests -> Clutch Engaged/Disengaged 2 times for 30 seconds each.

Ignition on, Engine off
3. (22) AWD -> Clear codes (even if none are present)

4. (22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Clear all adaptation values

5. Drive off, no launches for a few miles or so.

1 Seems to work perfect in VCDS, but on OBD11 it runs and won't stop (I got this to work on OBD11 this evening)
2. Seems to work perfect in OBD11, but I cannot get it to run on VCDS
3 & 4 work on both VCDS & OBD11.

Link to thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showt...d=1#post770158

Start the engine.
1. Open Controller 22 - AWD
2. Open Basic Settings - 04
3. In Basic Settings use the drop-down selection box to select "MAS02928 - Pump Motor"
4. Hit "Go" and let it run. Took a minute or so, during which time I could hear the Haldex pump cycling up and down and relearning its function.

After a while the Pump Basic Setting function "Finished Correctly", and everything started to work properly.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9033393-MiamiBourne-2016-Golf-R-Build-(Base-6MT)

 

[Mini7]

VAQ PUMP/O-RINGS
The service kits from VW for the VAQ pump is ridiculously expensive for two O-rings and 2 - mounting bolts. I bought my Pump a year ago for $230 and now the are well over $400 which is crazy.

Found an online store in the UK, which supplies the O-rings. They match the O-Rings on the new pump I installed. The O-rings are in-expensive, but shipping gets you. There is some useful information on the site as well regarding fault codes and recommended fixes.

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/o-ring-seals-for-gen-5-haldex-pumps/
O ring Seals For Gen 5 Haldex Pumps
Replacement seals for the Haldex Pump body, useful when removing and fitting pump for servicing and cleaning of gauze strainer
Cleaning the Gauze Strainer is an important part of Gen 5 Servicing, along with running the “Pump Learn” function in VCDS/Vagcom.
Please see our guide to Generation 5 VAG Haldex Click This Link!
Comes as 2 seals in Jiffy Bag
The two seals are not the same size!
Ensure smaller seal goes closest to the gauze/strainer pickup.
While the larger seal is fitter closest to the flange and motor body.

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/generation-5-haldex-fault-finding-repair-guide/

VAQ Pump: https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/sho...differential-pump-for-vw-audi-seat-0cq525549/
You are looking $300-$320 landed depending on the exchange rate.

My old pump was working perfectly well. With me tracking on a regular basis, I wanted a spare. The gauze was not dirty when I pulled it out which was a pleasant surprise but also make me wonder whether it was working as it should.
I’m going to add the resetting of adaptations into my maintenance routine and check on it every couple months and definitely before any track event.

 

[Gvazquez]

Hah! No worries. It was really good to watch. You’ve driven VIR so you can appreciate his commitment.
I’ve done 117mph up the esses on MPS4S and understeer bad through T-9, So going in at 140 and letting it bleed down to 120mph in that big heavy car. And then do 96-97mph through T-10. Yup he is wheeling the car hard.

That commitment is super real for sure. Our teams brz's can flat foot the esses and hold 124mph while the 370z can hold 130mph through them. Its definitely ass clinching to see that

 

[Mini7]

The uphill esses is a BIG reason why VIR is such an awesome track. When pushing hard, your car is dancing under you. I try maintain my speed up through the esses but get high speed push through T-9 which makes the setup for T-10 difficult. For a RWD car it is key to be under power going up through there. At least slight maintenance throttle to keep weight(grip) on the Rear axle. The new setup is going to be interesting.........

Yup your cars are hauling the mail up through the esses.

 

[M3bs1]

Whenever I’m really pushing it through the esses I have this vision of ending up on the balcony of one of the villas......

 

[Mini7]

Lol. Best not drink any Red Bull......

I point a Porsche by and breathe the throttle a little up the esses. It means I can line up T-10 correctly and get through at 89mph on MPS4S (@ 5:15) I’m on 245’s because I can hear them rubbing. The previous few laps I was having a hard time getting the car track right for T-10 because of the momentum push through T-9

 

[Gvazquez]

Thats awesome man. Your t10 is really fast also im most impressed with as the speed you carry is on comparable to our TCA brz's.

Also are you on stock tune in that video? I see your capped at 124 lol

 

[Mini7]

Thats awesome man. Your t10 is really fast also im most impressed with as the speed you carry is on comparable to our TCA brz's.

Also are you on stock tune in that video? I see your capped at 124 lol

My goal is to consistently hit 85-86mph through T-10. I know I can go faster but the line has to be perfect. You need to use all the road at turn-in and exit and not overslow the car. Turn in is earlier than most people think. In the little dip parallel to the tree on your left. Aim for the leading edge of concrete as your apex marker and just kiss that.

The first lap of the video, I’m way way too late on turn in for T-10 and get loose when I require the car to take a big steering input. I’m hoping my new setup will allow me to run the esses hard but without the big push at T9, so I can line up T10 properly.

Im still on stock power in the Video
Only went to the low torque APR Tune on the last day of my last DE in 2019.

 

[Mini7]

Fastest Lap Comparison

Go to 3:48 for my previous fastest lap- Lap#7.
Even though I’m offline for T10 and taking the normal early apex, I maintain decent corner speed. 235-40-18 MPS4S on stock power and wailing tires. Lol

Go to 19:40
Lap#21 is my current fastest lap. This is on NT01’s which are quiet compared to the MPS4S. Having the extra power definitely helps. I’m not pushing as hard up the esses, get a good T10 and gain a few mph down the hill with the added power.

 

[M3bs1]

If you could only keep all of those slow Porsches out of the way.....