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Yea, the instructions I found showed opposite of how the spacers should be. ie it said both should be rearward for the softer setting but I needed both rearward for the hard setting. What I ended up doing was raising the car, removing the bottom bolt on one side, and drop the car back down...

I slapped some JB weld on it. From what I can tell, the damaged part is just the outer casing to provide a mount for the boot. The car is driving fine so I am going to just keep an eye on it for the meantime.

I am replacing my inner/outer tie rods because there is 120k miles on the factory ones. I wasn't having any odd noises or anything, but I am refreshing a ton of parts on the car since I bought it a few months ago. I had trouble fitting the boot on passenger side so I took it off to see what the...

That's generally my experience with the socket type spreaders. And they love to pop out when you give the knuckle some hammer action.

Best of luck, like I said that tool couldn't even get the knuckle spread enough to remove the factory Sachs unit. I'm sure the official Hazet one is better quality, though!

Curious what the proper process for setting the pre load on rear bar is. My Whiteline adjustable rear links must be partially uninstalled to adjust so it's not exactly something you can do with the suspension loaded up like you normally would. Here is how I have them now with the car on the...

Apologies for the double post but I finished up my fronts today. I tried this tool but it just snapped internally before getting anywhere close to a wide enough gap to pull the factory strut out... Just a word of warning to anyone else considering it. I went out and bought a chisel as a few...

I broke my EVAP clip as well but was able to fab up a new one (sorta) with zip ties. It works just as well as the original clip except you are free to yank the canister down without fear of breaking, the zip ties will rotate out of the way with enough force. Just be sure you get them nice and...