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Would you say it's feasible to remove the rear springs by getting the car on a lift and using spring compressors directly on the springs? it seems like there is enough space to tighten the compressors but I wonder why I haven't seen this being discussed at all as an option...

I know, but for some reason I find these around 40-50% more expensive than the Macan ones, even though they are both 4-pot Brembos of similar if not identical piston area (as they are a factory option on the MQB Leon Cupra (Golf clone in Europe) they can't differ too much/at all in total piston...

Haven't looked for 370mm options specifically, what I meant was that I could go as high as 370 as there are more options above 345mm that are at least not heavier than OEM 340mm rotors but they are also bigger. I can quickly think of the REVO-Alcon BBK that offers 355mm fully floating rotors...

Would it be possible to make custom brackets to push the calipers 20-30mm higher/more far out from wheel center in order to accomodate 20-30mm larger rotors? My trouble is I can't seem to find any floating and light-weight 340/345 rotors as I do for bigger sizes of 355-362-370mm, and I'd like...

Wow, this thread has saved me at least 1000 EUR, probably 1500... These 4pots seem to offer the increase in stopping power I'm after but they defo don't break the bank. Now just looking to finalize the setup with rotors and pads. Going with the Ferodo DS2500 as everyone I know swears by them...

Sounds weird maybe but 2x4 is far from the ideal size for this method, it's so annoying it actually goes by this name as you're probably going to have issues if you use that size. Yes maybe you can pull it off with an actual 2x4 but it's un-necessarily bulky, it limits how close and how parallel...

Thinking about my install the strut nuts are the only items not torqued to spec but by hand feel and I really would like to tick those off too. I am considering ordering the tool now and just tightening the nut through the top dome in the engine bay (hopefully I haven't over-tightened it...

Well spotted. I did this install last weekend for the first time and if there is one thing I'd do differently would be to wait until I get hold of the right strut nut pass-through socket. If you want to do it right it's just not possible without that damn tool. I tried using a 22mm lambda socket...

Just to report back on this for anyone having the same trouble: The key is getting the strut in as concentrically as possible to the hub (meaning with 0 angle between them). You achieve this by a combination of rotation of the strut and the hub until they are perfectly lined up. Having a block...

HELP! Started the 2x4, all was fine and smooth, wood was rigidly attached via the screw to the strut, front strut was out and new spring in. Now, I just can't get the strut seated back in the knuckle. I limited the LCA's travel with a wooden pallet below it to prevent disconnecting from the...

Ok, last questions I promise, just two days to installation anyway :p I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be...

Cheers, will visit some local shops/garages then.

Yeap, i would buy that If I could find it in the local stores or have it delivered by next weekend, will keep looking... You reckon that stepped wrench won't do it?

Couple more questions while preparing my install: a) Are 4 jack stands necessary or lifting only the axle you're working on is ok? (can't think of why this would matter...) b) Hard to find a proper high pass-through 21mm socket for the top nut and I ain't using air tools so most definitely...

Another thing I noticed while calculating the parts for my order: How is quantity 4x for those nuts at the rear? It's a single bolt and nut per strut, so should be 2x for the rear (plus 2x for the front end-link makes 4x in total). Am I missing something? EDIT: Disregard that, the OP is...

The zip ties addition, which I now know thanks to this thread is probably the trick the makes the difference between a disaster and a straightforward install. And the bit about pushing/pulling the control arm from the brake disc is as you say an important step in order to fully release the...

I see. How you solved it in the end though? found another way or gave up? From what I have seen you need to first work on releasing it a couple of inches using the spreader (or a pry bar) which you have to do in two steps as after some initial drop, the tab is in the way and you need to move it...

I don't doubt that at all, I know some people that have upgraded springs without replacing a single stretch bolt, including the drive shaft bolts and main spindle bolt and their cars (and them) are still driving around fine so that end-link nut is much less of a big deal, I just pointed it out...

Good luck to both of us then! Although I'm already thinking of waiting for the spreader and all bolts to arrive before going forward so it might be that i skip it for next weekend, springs are arriving tomorrow though :) (would be hard to resist this weekend...)

I could be willing to work on the main outer shaft bolt if I didn't feel comfortable with or didn't succeed with the 2x4 method for some reason but I definitely don't want to touch the drive shaft bolts so my options are no.1 and no.3 with a preference for the 2x4. I reckon a couple of zip ties...