Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[BudgetPhoenix]

I just did a spring install with new shocks/struts/mounts on my 2016. Old ones came out easily with the 2x4 method. Had a hell of a time getting the new struts back in but I didnt have to sand the paint down like on my mk5. I actually have two socket type strut spreaders and had to use both of them at the same time in different spots to get it open enough, and it still didnt seem enough at times. They started to chew up the spindle a little bit. Got it eventually though with the help of the jack and mini sledge. I didnt even think of using chisels...I have a few. I also didnt know that other type strut spreader even existed til now lol.

 

[8PA3]

I just did a spring install with new shocks/struts/mounts on my 2016. Old ones came out easily with the 2x4 method. Had a hell of a time getting the new struts back in but I didnt have to sand the paint down like on my mk5. I actually have two socket type strut spreaders and had to use both of them at the same time in different spots to get it open enough, and it still didnt seem enough at times. They started to chew up the spindle a little bit. Got it eventually though with the help of the jack and mini sledge. I didnt even think of using chisels...I have a few. I also didnt know that other type strut spreader even existed til now lol.

That's generally my experience with the socket type spreaders. And they love to pop out when you give the knuckle some hammer action.

 

[nicholam77]

I'm still confused about the strut top nut on the rears (17mm)... is a strut nut socket needed for that, or no? Like this one someone else posted? I need to install some VWR shocks and I am not seeing any way to hold it with an allen key on the rears.

Picture of the VWR rear strut with and without the nut attached:

Thanks for any clarification!

 

[krs]

I'm still confused about the strut top nut on the rears (17mm)... is a strut nut socket needed for that, or no? Like this one someone else posted? I need to install some VWR shocks and I am not seeing any way to hold it with an allen key on the rears.

Picture of the VWR rear strut with and without the nut attached:

View attachment 291188
View attachment 291189

Thanks for any clarification!

Use a crescent wrench, or vice grips to hold the flat tab above the threads, then use a box wrench to turn the nut.

 

[nicholam77]

Use a crescent wrench, or vice grips to hold the flat tab above the threads, then use a box wrench to turn the nut.

Thanks, that makes sense, except then no torque wrench?

 

[krs]

Thanks, that makes sense, except then no torque wrench?

Nope, close enough has always worked for me. You might be able to check the torque after it’s tightened down some. Just mark the nut and the threaded shaft to see if they’re both turning or not.

Sometimes you just have to go with it, or buy all sorts of one-off tools for something that can be close enough.

 

[Cuzoe]

If you have a 17mm crows foot it can be used at 90 degrees with your torque wrench and the torque doesn't change. It can also be used at angles other than 90 degrees but then you need to do math.

 

[snobrdrdan]

Use a crescent wrench, or vice grips to hold the flat tab above the threads, then use a box wrench to turn the nut.

I used this....this set is cheap & handy:
https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-and-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-piece-62305.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNTY4NjI1NDEiLCJza3UiOiI2MjMwNSIsImlzIjoiMjEuMjQifQ==&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20569253490&campaignid=20569253490&utm_content=154183759415&adsetid=154183759415&product=62305&store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvL-oBhCxARIsAHkOiu0k1eJrQdZOdHCgjI7XMQevP6n4lEZF-OsuwkmMRZdWwiL1dC9-mCsaApjdEALw_wcB

 

[mrmatto]

Should all 3 of these in the rear be torqued with the suspension loaded? Going to swap in new spring isolators.

 

[Supercrumpet]

Should all 3 of these in the rear be torqued with the suspension loaded? Going to swap in new spring isolators.
View attachment 291331

I believe so, but regardless it can be done fairly easily if you have the car on jackstands and use a floor jack on the end of the lower control arm to push it up into place, which gives you way more space than with the car on the ground.

 

[mrmatto]

I believe so, but regardless it can be done fairly easily if you have the car on jackstands and use a floor jack on the end of the lower control arm to push it up into place, which gives you way more space than with the car on the ground.

Good point. It seems the arm needs to be jacked up a bit anyways just to get the bolts back in.

 

[mrmatto]

Did this tonight, Was a pretty simple job once I figured out the best order to get the bolts back in. 1 shock, 2 end link, 3 hub. Re-torqued everything with the assembly compressed.

Old isolators were intact but very indented and hardened.

 

[blaqsheep]

Swapped my suspension back to stock recently and getting a lot of the dreaded "log noise" over bumps/imperfections in the rear. Everything is tight back there, what's the deal? OEM Sachs rear shocks suck?

 

[mrmatto]

Swapped my suspension back to stock recently and getting a lot of the dreaded "log noise" over bumps/imperfections in the rear. Everything is tight back there, what's the deal? OEM Sachs rear shocks suck?

That seems to be the conclusion from others with the issue. Do you have the Audi subframe harmonic damper installed? Supposedly that helps.

 

[nicholam77]

So I’m knee deep in the driver’s side front strut, replacing stock strut with VWR sport strut (matches the VWR springs I already had).

Got it out fine with the 2x4 method and everything swapped over to the new strut.

I cannot for the life of me get it back in. The first time I got it aligned and in far enough that the top of the tab was flush with the top of the pinch spindle thingy. But even that was a struggle. At least an inch to go and it wouldn’t budge no matter what, basically stuck. Couldn’t figure it out, it looked aligned, I used WD40, etc. it was so stuck I could barely get it out.

2nd attempt and I could only wrestle it in until half the tab was in. I am using the spreader tool as I go. It’s the metalnerd style (not actual metal nerd part), and the widest part of the cam is .310”. Is that not wide enough?

I measured the strut diameters and the VWR is only 6 thousandths wider, can’t imagine that would matter.

I have chisels, but how the hell are you supposed to hammer them or get any sort of leverage?

Any pointers would be appreciated, I’ve been stuck on this all day.

And two specific questions:

When putting the strut back in, should the top mount bolts be tight, or still loose? And do I need to loosen the 3x ball joint / knuckle bolts underneath the control arm? I have not tried that yet but don’t want to loosen anything I don’t have to. Currently they are not loosened.